Sunday, January 11, 2015

San Blas Islands, Panama -- January 10, 2015


San Blas Islands, Panama

The Isthmus of Panama was formed about 3 million years ago when the land bridge between North America and South America finally closed.  While the origin of the name is disputed, most Panamanians accept the theory that Panama means abundance of fish, trees, and butterflies.  Panama has an area of 29,150 square miles and an approximate population of 3.4 million people. 

The southernmost country in Central America, the Republic of Panama was inhabited by several indigenous tribes before arrival of the Spanish in the 16th Century.  After breaking from Spain in 1821, Panama became part of the Republic of Gran Colombia until 1903 when it seceded from the republic so that the US Army Corps of Engineers could build the Panama Canal.  The canal was completed in 1914.  In 1977 an agreement was signed with the USA to transfer the ownership of the canal to Panama by the end of the 20th Century.  This transfer took place on the 31st of December in 1999.

Panama has the second largest economy in Central America; most of its GDP comes from canal tolls. 

Although we had been through the Panama Canal in 2013 and going through the canal again follows, we had never set foot on Panamanian terrain so we were both looking forward to that.  Especially Barb wanted to do so as it would be her 100th destination – a real achievement among travelers.  I achieved that goal late in the Grand Mediterranean cruise last spring, but it would be one more to add to my list. 

The San Blas Islands are an archipelago of about 378 islands, of which 49 are inhabited and they are located north of the Isthmus of Panama and east of the canal.  The islands are noted for tropical beauty and, interestingly, their lack of severe hurricanes in a part of the world where they tend to be common.  The indigenous people are the Kuna Indians who had occupied the isthmus until the Spanish conquests when the native peoples were driven away and moved to the nearby islands.  Most of the men speak Spanish but some women may not.  Most earn living through fishing and even hunting.

Our arrival was scheduled for noon, so sea day activities continued during the morning.   About 10 AM, our cruise director, Gene Young alerted us to the fact that very soon we would be passing the Thor Heyerdahl barque on our port side going the opposite direction.  Many of us ran to that side for the unusual photo op.

When we anchored off the island, we waited for those that were anxious to be among the first off and then we headed down to the tender platform.  We hit it right as a line was starting to move to go down the steps to the tender.  However when Barb got there, she noticed that the tender was pitching and rocking and slamming against the side of the ship.  As her turn came, she looked and saw the tender drop far below the platform and then come up with the wave.  At that point, she refused the arm of the helpful crew and said it was just too much of a risk after all she had been through during the past year.  When she came back up to the loading area, she said Henk Mensink, Hotel Director and Gene Young, Cruise Director were surprised and asked why she was back so soon.  She told them that after her broken back one year ago and her recent aggravation of the tendonitis in the knee, the attempt was just not worth it.  When she told them her reason, they concurred that it was the best decision.

So I boarded and took the approximately 15-minute journey to the island.  When I arrived, people were already lined up to make the return to the ship.  I walked along the pathway of hard dirt past rickety one story wooden building, many of which served as homes that none of us could imagine occupying.  Most were open to the air and the roofs were likewise made of branches.  Along the main dirt street which was for pedestrian use only (cars are impractical since the island is so tiny), women and children were seated outside with molas (cloth handcrafts) with many bright tropical designs for sale and hanging on buildings.  There were also tee shirts, many of which were hand made (and the lettering often proved they were handmade) and other local trinkets which they were hawking.  Women and children were wearing bright traditional costumes including brightly colored socks, dresses, and tops which often were mismatched.  Many of the women, including the elderly, had rings through their noses.  Somehow I have never found that improved a person’s looks but I must be way out of touch as it seemed to be quite the fashion here!

I walked to one end of the island, then came back and continued the main “road” to the other end of the island where I could spy the Amsterdam at anchor.  Along the walk, I spotted friends Bob and Nancy with whom I had done the shore excursion yesterday and our friend Alice, walking and, like everyone else, soaking up the local color.  All along the way were people with pretty much the same things for sale and all sitting outside waiting for the occasional shopper.  Once I ran into Jan and Dick, friends from Naperville, and Jan commented, “I know what they do for a living here!”  When I asked what prompted her to say she knew, she said “They make lots of babies!”  As I walked, many people were snapping photos.  When anyone wanted a picture of a specific person, the children would say “one dolla!”  A main income was dollars for photos.  Especially was the lady at a front door, smoking her pipe.  Lots of people wanted that picture!  There were the kids with tropical birds on their heads wanting their “one dolla” as well as kids holding a little kitten or bird and begging for money in return for a picture.

After having had my fill of San Blas Islands, I returned to the tender and the ship.  I’ve been in Panama now though I doubt that this is how most Panamanians earn their livings.

                                                                                                CT

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