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| Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao, Spain |
Shortly before I left home for this cruise, I happened to
tell one of the Spanish teachers, Brian Shannon, for whom I occasionally
sub at Lincoln Way Central High School, that I would be visiting Spain this
spring. He inquired as to what places in Spain were included in the
cruise, so I identified the ports starting with the Canary Islands and
concluding with Bilbao, Spain. Admittedly I was unfamiliar with Bilbao so
was surprised to hear him say that he had spent time in that area and that it
was a wonderful city with an impressive Guggenheim Museum. He added that
he isn’t typically a museum person but this museum is a major exception.
Then he commented that I would not be disappointed with Spain. From
beginning to end starting with the three Canary Islands that we saw (as much a
part of Spain as Alaska and Hawaii are part of the US), Barcelona, Motril (for
Grenada), Minorca, Cartagena, and now Bilbao – all have been beautiful and
impressive places to see. Unfortunately we had had to miss Cadiz but we
had visited Cadiz two years ago, so as much of a disappointment it was not to
go there this year, we know what we had missed having been there before.
Spain absolutely did not disappoint! Every single port had much to offer
in terms of beauty, culture, and history.
It would not surprise me to learn that there might be
readers of this blog who hadn’t heard of Bilbao, as admittedly I hadn’t either
until we selected this itinerary. I am so glad that now Bilbao means
something to me and I would have been happy to have stayed in this vibrant city
much longer. Bilbao is on the northeast coast of Spain on the Bay of
Biscay and is in the heart of Basque country. Many of the Basques would
prefer autonomy as the French Canadians of Quebec and the Scots in
Scotland. The Basques represent a large portion of the population of this
area and Bilbao is its capital with the largest population (something approximating
350,000 within the city and many more outside). The red and green Basque
flag flies proudly and prominently throughout the region. The Basque
language is encouraged and signs are in both Spanish and Basque. It’s not
an easy language to learn at all and there is no similarity between the Spanish
spoken in most of Spain and the Basque language here. It’s more similar
to the Hungarian language and has no real ties to the Romance languages like
Spanish, French, and Italian.
After leaving Lisbon, we had had rough seas with abundant
whitecaps, but gratefully overnight the seas had calmed and we had a smooth
sail in to the port of Getxo, about a 20 minute bus ride into Bilbao. It
was cloudy and cool initially, though we had been promised sunny skies and
temps in the comfortable 70s. Getxo was a mixture of a busy industrial port on
one hand but also a beautiful, relaxing sandy beach with great mansions on the
hillside above the beach. Just a few days before leaving home and based
on the recommendation that I might like the Guggenheim museum, I canceled an
excursion that would have taken me out of the city of Bilbao after a short walk
there to another place for most of the tour. Barb who had majored in
French in college had decided she needed to rest to get ready for the upcoming
French ports in three places she had never seen. Then I had booked the
popular tour I chose, Bilbao Highlights & the Guggenheim Museum.
We docked at about 10 AM in Getxo. Those with
excursions were getting off the ship at the same time as those who were
planning to take a shuttle into town, so there was near mass confusion at the
gangway. But we got through the crowds and onto the tour bus just as the
skies were breaking and the promised blue skies were emerging. Our guide
began to tell us about the region and city we were visiting. For
generations, Bilbao was a small settlement but with the growth of industry, the
population began to soar in the 1870s. It became a major city for
shipping as well as for manufacture of iron, steel, and shipbuilding.
Interesting Bilbao is a sister city for Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, both of which
were major steel producing cities. Today Bilbao has a population of about
350,000 in the heart of the Basque region of Spain.
Today, Bilbao is the center of a rich architectural heritage
as well as home to the largest Guggenheim Museum in the world. It is the
latter which has transformed Bilbao into a major tourist destination. It
was in the early 1990s that a European home was being sought for a new
Guggenheim Museum. While most funding would be privately provided, it
would require a financial commitment from the city that hosted the museum.
Barcelona and Bilbao, according to our guide, were the two most affluent cities
in Spain, but Barcelona was busy preparing (and paying for) the upcoming 1992
Summer Olympics and it couldn’t handle the costs for both the Olympics and the
new Guggenheim Museum. Bilbao seized on the opportunity and construction
began in 1993. The architect, Frank Gehry, used titanium for the exterior
as well as much of the interior and the large museum proudly opened in
1997. This put Bilbao literally on the map as an international destination.
Our On Location Guide, Brett, stated that Bilbao went from a few tens of
thousands of visitors a year, almost immediately to hundreds of thousands of
visitors. It has been a boon to the city’s success. As we came into
Bilboa, crossing a bridge over the Nervion River, there was the imposing
Guggenheim Museum! Oooohs and ahhhhs went through the bus as it was seen
for the first time by many of us. One lady near me said, “This one thing
is making the cruise for me!” While not looking at all like it, the
unique design of architect Frank Gehry and the modern appearance reminded
me of when I saw the Sydney Opera House for the first time. Very, very
different, but very, very beautiful.
The bus pulled into a parking place and the guide explained
we would have two hours there, that he was sorry and knew it was impossible to
do justice to the museum in two hours, but he was obligated to also show us the
old part of the city too. He did offer the option to those who wished, to
break away from the tour and explore on their own and they would be able to
stay longer and to go back to the ship on a shuttle bus. He showed them
where they could get the bus. We walked along the side of the imposing structure
and saw from below the artistic symbol of the museum, a puppy made of
flowers. We walked down to the river and were shown how the river was
integrated into the design of the sweeping metal lines of the structure and
glass. There were several very different outdoor architectural displays
to see before we went inside, looking in awe at the interior design. He
told us we were free to take pictures of the architecture inside but not of the
art. Sometimes it was hard to tell the difference between art and
architecture. Anyone with an interest in architecture would have been
fascinated. Through the cruise I have been intrigued by the beautiful
architectural treasures of Europe – Spain, Italy, Greece and more.
But this museum is new, modern and fascinating. Just a few comments about
some displays we saw can do no justice to the museum at all. In one huge
room, we were led into a huge maze-like structure except there was just one way
in and one way out. But the sides were so tall and curved and sweeping
that one almost felt like they weren’t on solid ground. It was
interesting later to look at it from above and to see people walking where we
had walked a few minutes before. This was one of the treasures of art that we
weren’t allowed to photograph. In another room there was a large net like
object filled with balls that a person could ascend, though not without
difficulty, while swinging in the net because of their own and steps of others
in the attempt to reach the top. Still a third piece of art was very
electronic. One could try to read messages in electronic words but the
words rose vertically rather than having a horizontal display. I tried to take
a picture but the guide reminded me I couldn’t take a picture of the art.
I apologized saying I was thinking that was architecture. He covered for
me by replying that it is very difficult to determine the difference
sometimes. After the explanation of several of the displays, the guide
set us free reminding us that we had a half hour to get to the nearby
busy I made my way up to the third level to see a famed exhibit by Yoko
Ono, wife of legendary John Lennon. A quick perusal of some of the
exhibits inside and a mandatory route through the gift shop, brought me outside
just in time to make a fast ascent up about 50 easy stairs to the floral
“puppy” so I could take pictures of it for myself and a lady who had been on
our voyage since Ft. Lauderdale since she knew she could never make it up
to the top for pictures and then back down to the bus in a mere 10
minutes. I got the pictures for both of us and was back on
the bus as most were just boarding.
Then we drove through other parts of Bilbao to a park across
from a cathedral and the ornately designed Opera House. People were
enjoying the park but as we started to walk, we heard loud noise and the guide
explained that elections were coming soon and it was all a part of the election
campaigning. We crossed the street in front of the Opera
House and saw some tables and some large paper signs on the ground. He
said this was all a part of an effort to stop fracking in Spain much like some
in our country are trying desperately to do in the US as well. We wound
through the old part of the city, fascinated by the beautiful old
architecture – as fascinating as the new architecture in the Guggenheim is.
He stopped several times with explanations, some of which I heard and some I
didn’t because time was limited and there were nearby pictures I wanted as well
as at least a quick chance to get into a souvenir store for some kind of
memorabilia of a city I already knew I wanted to revisit some
day. Problem is that Bilbao is off the beaten path for most
cruises. We had just about 5 minutes to dash into a souvenir
store where I had just enough time to pick out a fridge magnet and no time for anything
else. As we left he told us that when Franco ruled Spain as a dictator, he had
decreed that the only legal religion in Spain was to be Roman Catholic.
Other religions including Protestants were not welcomed. However people
weren’t required to attend church and as a backlash to Franco’s orders when he
was no longer in power, most Catholics stopped attending church. Thus
there are large churches and cathedrals but they are mostly empty. He
said that the hope is that once the memory of Franco fades farther into the
past, that people will begin returning to church. In one seminary, he
told us, there were exactly two men studying for the priesthood. Back on
the bus, we returned to the port in Getxo with a most favorable impression
of this part of northern Spain.
The shuttles were running about every twenty minutes, so I
dashed onto the ship, had a quick bite of lunch, and back out to go back to the
city at least for a short time. I was sorry to learn that it was too late
to go back in and then return in time for our departure. Definitely we
needed more time here. So I walked along the walkway near the ship, past
many busy waterside restaurants and a few businesses that catered to private
boats of which there were many. I walked along the beach where many
families were swimming and sunbathing on a beautiful Saturday afternoon.
Above the beach were expensive mansions that would have commanded small
fortunes to own. But nowhere could I find a single store with things
tourists might want to buy (or anyone else for that matter). But it was
fun watching people enjoy the afternoon, either leisurely enjoying something to
eat and drink in an outdoor café with friends or having fun at the beach.
It has been fun trying to snap pictures of kids being kids without them knowing
I was really trying to take pictures of them. I was hoping they would
think I was taking a picture of the beach or some interesting building.
Our ports in Spain are now concluded and I have to say, “I
was not disappointed.” I have been in Spain three times but definitely liked
this visit the best. Weather was great. Cities and ports were
excellent. People were hospitable. We had a great time. Each
place we visited, we left with a knowledge that it wasn’t long enough and we’d
like to come back for a longer stay – sometime soon.
CT
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