Sunday, April 13, 2014

The Post Card Beauty of the Villages of Minorca


Sailing into Minorca

About all we had known about Minorca was that it is a favorite vacation spot but weren’t prepared for the beauty that met our eyes as we began our sail in to Mahón (pronounced as though the “h” wasn’t in the word), on the island of Minorca.  Minorca and the other islands of the Balearic chain are an integral part of Spain much the same way the Canary Islands are.  These islands are located in the Mediterranean Sea southeast of Barcelona. With a population of just under 35,000 people in Minorca’s 90,000 some total population, Mahón is its largest city.

As we quietly sailed in, both sides of the ship were treated to superb view of the bay.  Beautiful white homes with flowers adorning the homes and property were abundant.  Many had boats or yachts in the water adjoining the homes. There were several islands including, one of which contained what seemed to be an abandoned building that had been an institution of some kind at one time.  Despite the fact that it was clearly abandoned, there was a certain amount of charm about the island that actually added to the beauty of the region.  Another place looked like an attractive military institution with a bell tower on the top.  As we glided into our port, it appeared that for once, both sides of the ship had attractive views.  This time we had the dock side of the ship and could observe the street with its shops, cafes, and restaurants.  There was a set of steps up to a higher level as well as a street that climbed the hill toward the town with more stores and businesses.

Our excursion, called Discover Ciudadela included a drive around this beautiful island with stops in three lovely villages as well as the highest point in Minorca.   While we got from village to village in a matter of minutes, our guide told us that until as recently as about 70 years ago, most people grew up in one village and hardly ever traveled at all.  Most ventured no more than about five miles from home throughout their lives.  For that reason, today people can tell where other Minorcans live by their unique accents and word usage.  Even within a few miles, the meaning of words change depending on the dialect in the community.  A trip of five to ten miles might be a once in a lifetime trip!  It’s hard for us who travel the world to comprehend people being confined to one local area as recently as three quarters of a century ago! 

As we left our port, we drove over gently rolling terrain and then up the highest mountain in Minorca, Mount Toro.  The climb began in the small town of Mercadal and zigzagged back and forth up the hillside. Minorca is not nearly as mountainous as some of the islands we have visited, and the mountains, unlike virtually all the others so far on our trip, are not volcanic.  When we reached the summit we saw a large statue of Christ outside the17th century Augustine Order’s Santuario de Nuestra Senora de El Toro.  We admired the statue, outstanding views of much of the small island in all directions, and an inside visit to the chapel itself.

The rest of our tour included stops in three beautiful villages each with their own special beauty.  Our first stop was in the village of Ciudadela that gave its name to our tour.  We spent an hour in this village, with our guide taking us on a walking tour of the village.  Before getting off the bus, we had passed a small college with many of the students outside and then as soon as we began walking in Ciudadela, we obviously were walking past an elementary school.  Large cut out children’s masterpieces were displayed in the windows; one of the teachers was putting one of her student’s artwork on display for all to admire.  Next to the school was the Town Hall which is the oldest building on the entire island and was built in Moorish style and reflected the island’s history.  We passed an overlook to the coast below with the houses and boats making an attractive scene.  We walked quickly through the weekly market in the main square as the guide pointed out the elegant old homes built by wealthy owners a century and more ago.  They are still occupied on the upper floors but owners rent the ground floor for offices and stores.  Our guide, Santi (nickname for Santiago), told us there were 12 churches and one cathedral in Ciudadela.  Beyond the cathedral were the living quarters of the cathedral clergy and religious orders. The guide told us that Ciudadela has an annual festival at Eastertime as well as another on July 9 to commemorate the worst day in the long history of Minorca.   It was the day in 1558 (if I recall the year correctly) when the Turks destroyed Ciudadela, killed many citizens, and sold others into lifetime slavery.

Upon leaving beautiful Ciudadela, we drove to another part of the small island and went to the seaside community of Fornells located at the mouth of a deep inlet.  It is mostly a fishing village but has a number of seaside stores and cafes.  We had about twenty minutes for picture taking and quick shopping for those who were interested.   Our final stop was at Addaia where we once again had an opportunity to see more beautiful homes.

Our guide told us that this would be a good time to buy real estate in Minorca.  He pointed out some very attractive homes and said they could now be purchased for about 200,000 Euros (or approximately $275,000).  Minorca is clearly an upscale island, probably upper middle to upper class residents; while I wasn’t watching for it, toward the end of the tour, I began to realize I had seen virtually no graffiti which is far more prevalent in Europe than in the US.

We had an early departure today:  4 PM, with an all aboard time at 3:30.  Most people don’t cut it that close and are on board at least a half to a quarter hour before the all aboard.  About 3:25, the ship horn sounded loudly. When in port, it usually means there is someone not on board yet and they need to hurry to get on before the gangway is lifted.  An announcement went out for the guests in Stateroom 481 to contact the front desk.  Another blast of the horn, followed by an announcement that Mr. and Mrs. Lopez should contact the front desk.  Then the same request was repeated in Spanish.  By now, a lot of people were on verandahs and on the walkaround deck, speculating as to the whereabouts of “Mr. and Mrs. Lopez”.  A couple of ship’s officers got off the, and I saw them talking to some people at the ship security location. Another man, dressed in what we would call “smart casual” clothing went out to the street and looked one direction and then the other.  Clearly he was a local person as he made no rush to get on the ship as the crew prepared to pull the gangway on board.  I could see several ship officers standing outside on the bridge along with Linda, the cruise director.  Another blast of the horn but no one seemed to be rushing to get on board.  About 3:45, the gangway went up and the ship slowly pulled away from the dock. It appeared that the guests were being left behind (albeit in a beautiful port!).  It is every cruiser’s nightmare to have the ship leave without them.  It does happen, though rarely.  This evening I heard a lady tell someone else something about “the pilot boat picked them up and they had to climb aboard the ship from the pilot”.  So it sounds like they did get on board – but barely.  Perhaps they didn’t pay enough attention to the sailing time as sailing is usually at 5 or 6 PM and sometimes later.

An update on our friend Alice and others who are sick…  Barb called Alice this morning since Alice would be in her stateroom.  She had been quarantined because of her fever which I mentioned in the Barcelona blog. She is feeling somewhat better but heard she was the 10th person from the Marrakesh overland trip, all on the same bus, to become ill a few days later.  Before dinner, the Captain announced that there had been an outbreak of gastro-intestinal illnesses and to be very careful about handwashing, etc.  Alice is quite sure her illness is a result of something that happened on the Marrakesh overland because her fever came so quickly and symptoms are not consistent with the contagious viruses that tend to plague cruise ships.  We are hopeful she is right and likewise, we hope whatever others are ill, that it doesn’t spread!  Cruise ships tend to be quite secretive about these kinds of things… 

But in the meantime, we have ended our Spanish ports until we return during the extension and once again sail the Mediterranean coast of Spain but with all different ports.  Tomorrow it is on to the island of Sardinia which is part of Italy.  Barb noted that today our Grand Voyage is exactly half over but we will still have the fourteen day extension after most people disembark in Rome in just under a month from now.

CT

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