Tuesday, April 22, 2014

The Dalmatian Riviera of Korcula, Croatia

Sailing into Korcula, Croatia
A very Happy Easter to all!   We celebrated Easter with a 6:30 AM ecumenical sunrise service at the back of the ship, conducted by the onboard minister and priest.  It was cold and windy, but so well attended that I literally got the very last bulletin and we sat in the far back corner on chairs that they had to bring in to handle the overflow.  A very good sign to have so many people gathered there on Easter Sunday!  We do miss singing Christ the Lord is Risen Today though.  I told Chuck I think they must not have that hymn in their multi-denominational hymnal.  As we sat there, I couldn’t help but think of those at home – who were probably just settling in for a night’s sleep on the eve of this most sacred of holidays!

Easter Sunday followed our day in Korçula, Croatia.  According to the program we received the night we left Kotor, we were supposed to have rain in Korçula, Croatia.  So we were absolutely delighted to discover partly sunny skies as we sailed into this lovely town the next morning!  

This was a new port in Croatia for us, having visited Split and Dubrovnik back in 2008.  Each of the Croatian towns are very charming in their own way, and we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Korçula (the ç has the “ch” sound in Croatian, so the name is pronounced Korchula).

This was my second day in a row of shore excursions, something I’ve done very seldom on this cruise, and it is always quite tiring.  Once again I was doing a boat ride, which is relaxing in many respects, but with the extra fresh air, it really does make me sleepy!  Chuck commented that this excursion, Dalmatian Riviera Cruise, is his first (and quite possibly only) excursion that is a boat ride.  Alice was also on the same trip, so we were glad for the extra company. 

Because Korçula is a tender port, we had to plan an extra half hour at each end of the excursion and were down at the meeting place quite early.  I once again took my walker rather than my wheelchair as it is easier to deal with on the small boats they use for the excursions.  Once ashore, the group of about 60 people split into two smaller groups.  We sent Alice ahead to get us a seat on the boat.  Each boat had tables that seated four people, so we were happy to have a table for three plus the walker. 

Our guide Edith explained that Croatia has about 1200 islands, of which Korçula is in the top six (my guess then is that it’s the 6th largest island, though I can’t be sure).  Korçula was originally named by the Greeks and has the exact same word root as the island of Corfu in Greece.  It was later taken over by the Romans and became part of the Byzantine empire. 

Because there was such a fear of pirates during its early days, most people lived inland and away from the coast.  Nowadays there are many, many settlements along the coast as well as those that remain inland.  Those people who live along the coast are mostly part of either the tourism or fishing industry. 

Those who live inland make their living through agriculture.  The most common crops are grapes and olives with the most important products being wine and olive oil.  Children are taught to drink wine at a very early age as parents add a very small amount of red wine to their water making it into a kind of juice.  Slowly the amount of wine is increased as children grow older.  Even as adults they still often add water to their red wines, which they drink with fish.  (I’m pretty sure I got that straight – I just know I was quite surprised as our culture usually associates white wine with fish.  Even though I don’t like or drink wine, I do know that much about it!)  Their white wines are stronger. 

I certainly wouldn’t make a very good Croatian since they drink so much wine, and their main food is octopus!  (Thanks, but no thanks!  I don’t like calamari so I’m sure I wouldn’t go for octopus!)  They also eat sea urchins, and if I understood correctly, she said they eat the sea urchins raw!  In addition, they eat a lot of fish as well as lobster (finally something I could live with)!   

Our cruise wove through the 20-island Korçula  archipelago took us to the village of Orebic on the Peljesac Peninsula for our first stop. As we approached the dock, one of the guests cried out, “Dolphins on the left!”  FINALLY we got to see some marine animals!  We just got a quick glimpse, but it was our first marine mammal sighting on the entire cruise! 

Orebic is known for being the home of captains.  I assume that she meant sailing captains.  Apparently virtually all the large homes in the village either are or were owned by captains.  We had a half hour of free time there, so the three of us walked along the shore line.  I didn’t go terribly far as the pavement was so bumpy that my hands got numb trying to push the walker.  (I would have been better without the darn thing, but one never knows!)  However I did enjoy the scenery!  Alice headed back to the boat with me while Chuck continued to walk farther along the coast. 

Back on the boat, we continued on our way, heading between islands to our next destination, the town of Lumbarda.  However the guide came on with a rather distressing announcement.  She had counted 32 people on the boat, and that was what she thought she had, but she recalled counting 33 tickets.  So we had to reverse direction and head back to Orebic to pick up the missing passenger.  The guide was in contact with her management, letting them know of the interruption in the schedule.  Good grief!  One would think people would be on time!  We stayed five minutes beyond when we were supposed to be on our way so this person really wasn’t very considerate!  The guide hopped off the boat and headed off the dock to the nearby coffee shop, but no anxious passenger was waiting.  When she returned she told us that her manager had told her to wait five minutes longer and then leave.  So that’s what we did.  

As we headed back across the water toward Lumbarda, Edith gave us an update:  Apparently someone had handed in two tickets.  One was for the Dalmatian Riviera Cruise, and the second was for Bologna & Ferrara which is an excursion offered in the port of Ravenna, Italy on the following day.  I certainly hope that person gets the ticket back as it’s for an 8-hour excursion that sounds lovely (though too rugged for me to do).  And I hope that person appreciates the fact that s/he threw the schedule off for everyone on that boat!  Oh, well, at least it wasn’t an instance of someone in a state of panic for having been left behind!

As we headed toward Lumbarda, we passed the island of Vrnik which has become world-renowned for its stone quarry from which white limestone is extracted.  This highly-desirable Vrnik stone has been used in the construction of famous buildings all over the world, including St. Sofia in Istanbul and our own White House. 

We had an hour to spend in Lumbarda.  Lumbarda was once a summer residence for the medieval patricians of Korçula. Part of our visit to Lumbarda was to be a walking tour that would take us to a winery.  Chuck did the tour while Alice and I stayed behind.  We found a small ice cream parlor where we each got an ice cream cone – which allowed us to use their facilities.  The ice cream was delicious, and we enjoyed sitting out at a table overlooking the harbor, watching the people go by (and even a Cairn terrier, bringing back memories of my own two Cairns) and enjoying the conversation. 

As we headed back toward Korçula, we passed the small island of Badija, where the prominent feature was a Franciscan monastery dating back to the 15th Century, as well as many other small uninhabited islands.  We marveled at how clear the water looked in each place we visited. 

Once back in Korçula, Chuck decided to stay ashore and walk around to get more of the local flavor, and he certainly did manage to do that!  He had quite a conversation with a woman who got all excited about his Taormina, Sicily t-shirt.  She spoke with very broken English, but she was thrilled to meet someone who’d been to her husband’s native island.  Chuck really got a kick out of that chat, and it sounded like he’d made that lady’s day! 

By the time I arrived back on the ship, I was really tired out, but I was happy to have found an excursion that I was comfortable doing.  We had a very pleasant day in our first of two stops in Croatia.  Our final stop in this lovely little country comes after our last two Italian ports: Ravenna and Venice. 

BT


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