Thursday, April 10, 2014

Granada and the Stunning Alhambra




The Alhambra's Court of the Lions
Motril is a fairly new tourist port, and the big lure here is Granada.  If we were to try to access Granada from other ports, the bus trip would be much, much longer!  From Motril it is a short hour ride, right through the spectacular snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains. 

Our shore excursion, Granada and the Alhambra, was the longest and most rugged excursion I had booked.  I was quite leery of doing it because of its length and the ability level assigned to it (a level 3, the most difficult of HAL excursions).  However Debby from Shore Excursions assured us that I would be able to do just about everything using the wheelchair. 

So it was with a combination of eager anticipation and fear and trepidation that we headed out on this excursion.  We were very grateful that Alice was also along with us.  She was wonderful about helping out in so many ways – pushing the wheelchair, keeping track of where the guide and group were, etc.  It would have been a much more difficult day for both of us had she not been with us! 

I guess I’d never really thought about the fact that there were mountains so far south in Spain, but we absolutely loved the majesty of the Sierra Nevadas.  There are fourteen peaks that rise above 3000 meters and are crowned with snow up until about July.  Oh, how they reminded me of my favorite mountains – the French Alps that surround Grenoble!  We enjoyed this scenery the entire way from Motril to Granada. 

Anyone who knows me (especially former students) are aware that I have a “thing” for languages and word derivations – probably coming from my many courses in Latin and French.  So whenever a guide starts talking about words, I tend to perk up and try to remember the details. Our guide explained that Granada comes from a word meaning pomegranate.  Although we didn’t see any, apparently there is an abundance of pomegranates in the area.  She was also telling us about all the monasteries and convents in the area around Granada.  I had never really thought of those to words in Latin context, but she explained that convents are in cities and monasteries are located well away from cities.  Convents come from the Latin con vivo, meaning to live with.  So in convents the nuns live close together and can interact with each other.  Monastery derives from mono, meaning one.  So monastery signifies that the inhabitants must live alone and have less interaction with each other.  Very interesting perspective – and explanation! 

Occupied originally by the Moors in the 8th Century and taken over by the Catholics in 1492, Granada is now a vibrant city bustling with activity.  We had a little free time right after we arrived.  I spent it sitting in a square watching the scenery while others took a walk. Chuck and Alice returned shortly saying that they had misunderstood the guide and that they were supposed to bring me along.  So off we went down the very narrow streets till we caught up with the group in another square where we had free time to shop or have a snack.  Then it was off to the Cathedral and Royal Chapel.  We first entered the Gothic-style Royal Chapel where Ferdinand and Isabella are entombed.  This chapel was built between 1506 and 1521 specifically for their burial.  I wasn’t able to take the wheelchair in, so I sat for awhile in the area where the tombs were and then rejoined the group outside after their tour of the Chapel. 

We continued around the corner to the Cathedral, a lovely Renaissance-style building erected in the 16th Century, right on top of Granada’s largest mosque!  Inside we had the opportunity to capture photos of the beautiful structure. 

The bus picked us up for the short drive to the entrance of the Alhambra, where we walked up to a nearby hotel for a buffet lunch.  The walk was a challenge – it was quite an uphill climb, and I didn’t want them to have to push me, so I did make the walk.  The hotel was bustling with activity of guests being served lunch.   Once again I was reminded of my semester fo study in France.  There was a group of French tourists there who all cut into the buffet line.  I had forgotten how I had learned to push my way to the front of any line while I was studying in Grenoble.  (No, that’s not all I learned, but it was a skill necessary for survival back then!)  Although our group of two buses was the first to arrive and the first seated, somehow the entire other half of the banquet room managed to get seated, then through the line and fed before we got near the food!  Oh, well, we got our food and were finished in plenty of time!

Since the tour included a mile walk to the Alhambra and it was all downhill, Chuck, Alice, and I decided it would be wise to take a taxi instead.  It would not have been fun for them to try to control a wheelchair for a mile-long steep downhill slope!  So the guide arranged for the taxi to pick us up at the hotel and take us to the Charles V gate of the Alhambra.  We were relieved that it cost a total of 5 Euros, including tip, for the three of us.  We got there quite early so we had a chance to relax and wait for the arrival of the rest of our group.

The Alhambra has very strict visiting regulations.  In order to preserve the facility, they allow only about 7200 visitors a day, and only a certain number of groups in per hour.  Because each group had to be 30 or less, our two buses were split into three groups. We stuck with our own guide because she was aware of what I could and couldn’t do. 

The Alhambra was built during the Nasrid Dynasty of Moors.  It was created to show their idea of Paradise on Earth, using mostly plaster, timber, and tiles.  It became particularly popular after Washington Irving stayed there for awhile and wrote the book Tales of the Alhambra. 

I am beginning to appreciate more and more what it is like to live a “handicapped” life, and am extremely grateful that this is only temporary!  Because of being in the wheelchair, we found ourselves at the back of the line most of the time and unable to hear the commentary easily.  We caught bits and snatches, but not really enough to get any continuity.  We don’t fault the guide – she was wonderful and very caring about my ability to get in and out of places, making arrangements for me to see what I could.  But of course that meant Chuck missed most of the commentary as well as Alice.  Alice had been to the Alhambra before, so she didn’t mind and was eager for me to see all that I could, but the information we received is pretty sporadic under the circumstances. 

There was a lovely reflecting pool just outside the Throne Room, which had exquisite carvings on the walls and ceilings.  The Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions) had a lovely fountain of lion sculptures.  From there we had to backtrack to be able to get out using the handicap entrance so I’m not sure what else the group saw. 

We took a long walk through an arbored path, and then many went on to the palace gardens.   Chuck decided to visit the gardens while Alice and I waited where the group would exit the gardens.  Soon Chuck was back.  He had needed his ticket to the Alhambra to get into the gardens, and he had handed the tickets to me so I could put them in my purse.  He returned about fifteen minutes after everyone had left with a sheepish grin on his face and the report that he had been unable to enter the gardens.  The ironic thing was that he had had the tickets in his pocket all day long but handed them to me to be scanned as we left the grounds of the Alhambra and suggested that I keep them in my purse! 

Our trip back to Motril was very relaxing, and we continued to enjoy the view of the Sierra Nevadas.  By the time we arrived back at the Prinsendam, I was absolutely worn out, and I’m sure Chuck and Alice were too after having had to push me around all day!   I barely had the energy to change for dinner, and I had to force myself to go for the evening’s entertainment.  Had I not enjoyed the first performance by Forbidden Broadway, a Tony-award-winning cast that parodies Broadway musicals, I probably would have skipped their encore show.  I’m glad I went because it was even better than the first one!

This was by far the longest excursion I’d taken, and it was the most rugged, so I’m happy to have it behind me, and I feel a sense of accomplishment, made possible by the efforts of Chuck and Alice as well as our tour guide, to allow me to see as much as I was able of Granada and the Alhambra.

As we set sail from Motril, many guests are busy packing; the first segment of the Grand Africa and Mediterranean Cruise ends in Barcelona after a day at sea.  We are sorry to see some of the friends we have met leave us there, and sorry to hear that there will be 180 more passengers on this next segment that are currently on board.  We’ve gotten very used to a small ship with a small population.

BT

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