Monday, March 25, 2013

A Quiet Day in Colombo, Sri Lanka

Asian elephant in Port of Colombo, Sri Lanka

Having had a busy and full day last year in Sri Lanka, we decided to have an unusually quiet day here this year for several reasons.  In 2012, we had taken a full day shore excursion out to the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage near the Sri Lankan capital of Kandy.  We had taken an elegant early 20th century train out to the elephant orphanage and had had our buffet lunch in a restaurant overlooking a river in which we watched elephants bathing, before taking a long bus ride through small villages back to the ship in Colombo.  This time our ship was in port only until 3 PM and we considered taking a tour of Colombo itself.  However, we remember that the air quality here was poor and given the fact that Asia had been so hard on Barb’s respiratory system last year and she seem finally to be doing much better after dealing with the pollution earlier this month, she felt it best to stay around the ship. 

I had given some thought to doing one of the excursions and particularly when friends Bob and Nancy offered to let me join them on their tour of the city.  The tour was to include a temple, and frankly, last year we visited many temples and we both felt we had “templed” out as a result.  Taking off the shoes, leaving them in an area outside and then walking on hot concrete or marble in stocking feet wasn’t optimal either.  Then we heard that we would not be permitted to dock at the same cruise ship terminal in Colombo as last year because priority at that dock had been given to an Iranian Naval ship and instead we would be docked at a much less than scenic container port dock.   Here, like in Thailand, the taxi union was rather strong and no complimentary bus shuttles would take those not on shore excursions into a central location in the city.  I wasn’t going to negotiate a price for a taxi just to wander around on a Sunday in Colombo, so I too stayed near the ship.

Sri Lanka, formerly Ceylon, is a pear shaped island (some call it a tear drop shape) off the southeast corner of India but Sri Lankans insist that they are not Indian and that there are significant differences between them and the much larger nation of India.  The largest city, Colombo, where we are docked, is in southwestern Sri Lanka.  Because of its location so far south, Ceylon had become a major trade port for European and Middle Eastern traders.  Muslims established a foothold in the area and later the Portuguese, Dutch, and finally the British at the end of the 18th century took control.  But in 1948, about the time India gained independence, Sri Lanka became independent of British rule.  Through much of the rest of the 20th century, Sri Lanka was plagued by civil strife.  In fact our friend Gerda from Brisbane, Australia that traveled with us between Sydney and Hong Kong this year, had related last year when we first met her, that she and her young daughters had been caught in Colombo during a revolution a number of years ago and they had to gather their belongings and get out of the country as fast as possible.  Today however, the political situation is much more stable and cruise ships are again including Sri Lanka on their itineraries.

Staying in port gave us the chance to have a relaxed morning so even before breakfast we headed out to the dock and were photographed with a cooperative Asian elephant.  Many people were handing Social Director Adele cameras and she was willingly taking pictures of anyone who wished next to the elephant.  On the other side of the large animal, some local trainers, in Sri Lankan ceremonial garb, also posed with tourists next to the elephant, but they then put their hands out and expected to be paid.  In addition, there were some local musicians and dancers on the pier who performed a few numbers.  However, neither of us noticed too much music and dancing by the time we arrived.  After breakfast, we went out into the morning heat which continued to go higher through the day, and browsed the vendor stalls.  Most of the items were very similar to what we had purchased a year ago so we came back empty handed except for a new tee shirt which I liked and which I purchased for $5 after bargaining it down a bit.  Neither Barb nor I enjoy the bargaining, but it’s expected in this area of the world.

We have heard several reports of injuries to fellow guests.  Our friends Nancy and Bob had done the excursion that involved sampling some Ceylon tea in a hotel.  Nancy commented that there were a number of very small, almost unnoticeable steps at random locations in the hotel where one wouldn’t otherwise anticipate steps.  One man, she said, fell flat on his face.  A lady who sits near us at dinner, fell at Mt. Victoria in Hong Kong and broke her ankle and is sporting a walking cast and is sometimes in a wheelchair.  This evening as we went into the Queen’s Lounge for the entertainment, we noticed a woman we know with a black eye.  Barb asked what happened.  Her response was that she missed a small step coming out of the stall a bathroom in Malaysia; she hit her head on the sink and her shoulder on the wall, leaving massive bruises.  These are just the ones we have personally heard about.  There have been so many small steps in unfamiliar places that it is nearly impossible to remain attentive to every single step!

I thought that since we didn’t have too much to report about Colombo as a result of not doing an excursion and not leaving port, it might be a good opportunity to comment on shipboard activities.  On a cruise such as this, the day is filled with things to do and of course, if a person chooses to read all day, they can.  Or perhaps they can take a siesta out by one of the pools.  Our friend Sally is an avid bridge player and does so every sea day.  To give an idea as to what can be done, I will identify some of the opportunities from Saturday, March 23, the sea day before Colombo: 
Early morning stretch
Body conditioning
Yoga
Sit and be fit
BeginningTai Chi
Intermediate Tai Chi
Making movies with the techspert
Watercolors
Indoor cycling
Exploring the Book of Genesis with the rabbi
Service club
Body Sculpt boot camp
Sit and knit
Guided meditation
Intermediate bridge
$1 low limit table gaming
Onboard sports – gold putt challenge
Guest Chef George Geary discusses cheesecake
Beginning Bridge
Onboard sports – wall ball
Team trivia
Single and solo travelers meet for lunch
Onboard sports – Wii Challenge
Deep stack Texas Hold’em tournament
Game players meet (party bridge, cribbage, Mah Jongg)
Duplicate bridge
Qi Gong
Spa Secrets: 5 steps to glowing skin
Techspert answers computer question
Arts and crafts
Afternoon Tea
Arts and crafts
Lifestyle Seminar:  ABCs of Vitamins
Bingo
Core Conditioning Pilates
HAL (Holland America Lines) Chorale
Friends of Bill W (Alcoholics Anonymous)
Vigil Mass
Fab Abs
Wine by the glass
LGBT gathering
Three card poker contest
Texas Hold’em cash game
Nightcap on Nine
Singalong Bingo in the Piano Bar
All request Hour with DJ

The above are activities in which I did not participate but are available to those interested.

Overnight we gained 1 ½ hours as Sri Lanka and India as well as a few other areas are ½ hour off most of the rest of the world.  I chose to stay up a half hour longer, stay in bed a half hour longer, and go out for my sea day walk a half hour earlier than usual.

On the same day, this is what filled my time:
·        6 AM  14 laps around the deck (about 4 miles)
·        8 AM   Breakfast in LaFontaine Dining Room
·        9:30 AM “Good Morning Amsterdam” interview with guest diamond expert from Israel
·        10:00 AM Travel Guide Barbara Haenni updates our stay in Colombo and describes things to see and do in the Seychelles, the port after Colombo
·        11:00 AM Explorations Speaker Series (Dr. Joe Daley):  Amad Ibn Majid – The Sea Lion, a little known but creative Arabian explorer and other useful inventions by Arabs
·        12N Lunch in Lido (today with friend, Ange)
·        1:00 PM work on organizing pictures taken in Hong Kong
·        2:00 PM Exploration Speaker Series (Dr. Robert Schrire):  The Future Bigger and Better (more on this later)
·        3:00 PM organize pictures and write emails
·        5:00 PM prepare for dinner
·        5:30 PM Dinner in LaFontaine Dining Room.  Barb invited guest flautist, Clare Langan from near Cambridge, England to join us
·        7:15 PM Listen to Piano Bar pianist Debby Bacon play requests
·        8:00 PM  Evening entertainment in Queens Lounge, Ventriloquist Brad Cummings
Needless to say, it was a busy day and anyone who is bored with the variety of activities has only him/herself to blame.  The ship sponsors a series of speakers who lecture on relevant topics.  A speaker who has drawn huge crowds to his lectures was Dr. Robert Schrire, a political analyst and a professor at the University of Cape Town, South Africa.  His lectures included topics on why India is an unlikely democracy, a comparison between modern India and China, motivations of current and recent leaders in places like Libya and Syria, forecasts for doom and gloom, and on March 23, the topic above.  His analysis seems to be “spot on” and he mixed political humor with serious discussion.  We got a kick out his comment, when talking about Law of Comparative Advantage” where he said, Illinois could grow grapes, but the Finger Lakes area of Upstate New York and Napa Valley in California are more suited to it and thus they had a comparative advantage over Illinois in grape growing.  He brought the house down by saying that Illinois had the comparative advantage in producing politicians!  Point made!
I might likewise comment that when we had our dinner with the guest flautist, Clare Langan, she related some of her experiences making the circuit from cruise ship to cruise ship.  Recently she was on another cruise line that was spending a good portion of time in Brazil.  She was listed by mistake as a passenger as entertainers and speakers typically are recorded rather than a member of the crew.  In Brazil there are very stringent visa requirements that are different for passengers than they are for crew members, and she didn’t have the visa required for passengers.  So she wasn’t permitted to get off the ship until their lengthy stay in Brazil was over. After leaving Brazil and moving on to Argentina, she wasn’t permitted to fly on to Tahiti where her next contract took her until she flew back to Britain first (Argentina and the UK are disputing control of the Falklands).  Furthermore, because she was quarantined on the ship in Brazil, she missed other contracts!
We are now ready to head toward The Seychelles Islands to the east of Madagascar and the continent of Africa.  Since we have now entered the “pirate waters” of the Indian Ocean,  the ship was  prepared in Colombo with the razor wire around the outside promenade deck, water hoses are at the ready and there is now 24/7 security watching on the outside deck.  The ship has increased speed and the ship reports regularly to the United Kingdom Maritime Trade Organization which coordinates warships in the area to deal with anti-piracy.  Unlike last year, on Monday morning there was a shipwide drill in which everyone had to find a location in the interior of the ship away from windows, much like the old air raid or tornado drills done in schools!  The Asian portion of this grand adventure is ending and we now have just one more port in the entire cruise that will not be new to us (Belem, Brazil).
We wish our Arizona friend Al who traveled with us around the world last year a safe and happy voyage as he flies this week from LA to Auckland to begin a cruise of New Zealand and then back across the Pacific to the US!  Al had wanted to visit New Zealand and considered this year’s world cruise but opted instead for a shorter cruise but one that put an emphasis on New Zealand.   We hope he enjoys it as much as we did!
CT

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