Saturday, January 26, 2013

Pitcairn Island: A Safe Haven for Bounty Mutineers, but Not for Us



After leaving Easter Island, our anticipation of turning the clock back – over and over – became a reality!   We have had five twenty-five hour days in a row, creating havoc in our sleep patterns.

One morning at Good Morning Amsterdam, the subject of Tim Horton’s came up.  Being big fans of Tim Horton’s, we eagerly tossed in our own comments.  We are not connoisseurs of coffee to say the least, but interestingly, most of the people who have tried Starbucks and Tim Horton’s prefer Tim Horton’s coffee.  And those of us who have enjoyed Tim Horton’s doughnuts find it a near insult to mention Tim Horton’s in the same breath with that American chain that’s famous for its doughnuts!  There is absolutely no comparison, and since that’s all we have in the Chicago area, it’s very easy for us to take a pass on doughnuts.  The little doughnuts one gets at that other doughnut chain are miniscule by comparison with the gigantic and mouth-watering ones we get from Tim.  Later in the day, we made sure we told Cruise Director Bruce and Hostess Adele that they absolutely must try Tim’s peanut doughnuts!  We sure do wish they’d decide to open a franchise in the southern suburbs of Chicago, but I guess it’s too far from Canada to even hope for such a thing!  Those people from Canada and Western New York (as well as other states that border Canada) will know exactly what we mean, I’m sure!

The day before we were scheduled to do our scenic cruising of Pitcairn Island, Captain Jonathan made a disappointing announcement.  We had missed Pitcairn Island last year due to a massive storm in the Pacific that caused a delay in our crossing and the necessity to eliminate a few stops, including Pitcairn.  Unfortunately this year the island’s inhabitants were visiting another cruise ship recently and contracted the flu.  Currently more than 20 of the 57 people are suffering from the H2N3 flu virus – the same one that has ravaged the US.  Since we have had no problem with this dreaded epidemic on board the ship, the captain and Seattle came to the mutual agreement that they didn’t want to chance the islanders coming on board and passing the flu on to the ship.  It is amazing to realize how interconnected the world is, even when we are in extremely sparsely populated and remote areas. 

One of our friends made a comment that had not even crossed our minds!  She told us that if we contracted the flu and a significant number of people were sick, port officials wouldn’t let us ashore, meaning that we’d have to sit floating at sea until the virus ran its course.  So far this year there have been absolutely no health issues on the ship, and everyone certainly wants to keep it that way!

We had so looked forward to visiting Pitcairn Island and being able to tell our friends, Jim & Kathryn Pitcairn of New Lenox all about our experience, but we can now only show them the pictures of this small island.  Pitcairn Island is named for the midshipman, 15-year-old Robert Pitcairn, the first European to spot it back in 1767.  Pitcairn Island is the second largest of four islands spreading out across 400 square miles of ocean (the others being Henderson, Dulcie, and Oeno) that make up the least populous and most remote jurisdiction in the world.  It is not a nation but is under the jurisdiction of the United Kingdom.  Pitcairn Island is a very small island inhabited by descendants of the Bounty mutineers – Fletcher Christian and his compatriots (as of 2010, only four families remained: Brown, Christian, Warren, and Young).  They chose that island because it is virtually impossible for large ships to land, which afforded them the protection they needed after their mutiny.  Seeing it, we could definitely comprehend why this island was selected – it is virtually impossible for ships, or even tenders, to land on the shore without permission from those who live there.  We saw no docks, though there have to be some because they use small boats and outriggers to fish.

The islanders usually come to cruise ships to sell their handmade goods, talk with the passengers, and present a lecture as the ship does scenic cruising around the island.   Back in the late 90s the UK provided the islanders with bees so that they could produce honey; Pitcairn Island honey is among the highest quality honey in the world, so we were hoping to get a sample of this as well as well as other local handmade souvenirs, but that was not to be (no pun intended).  Although we would have thoroughly enjoyed welcoming the islanders aboard to speak with us as well as sell their wares, we did appreciate the opportunity to do the scenic cruising. 

As we approached, we were struck by the small rugged island rising up out of the water.  We observed a boat bobbing in the water and wondered if it was a fishing boat, but as we neared it, we realized that it was loaded with islanders coming to meet the ship and receive goods.  As a goodwill gesture, the ms Amsterdam donated the goods the islanders had requested to purchase.  After all, because they couldn’t come on board and sell their wares, they were definitely losing an opportunity not only to interact with the outside world, but to make a considerable amount of money.  With zoom lenses, we were finally able to figure out that there were 16 people on this boat – more than ¼ of the current population of 57!  (I visualized two of our fifth grade classes with an average size of about 27 or 28 students.  However this is the entire population: babies, children, adults, and senior citizens, not just 10-year-olds!) Apparently the island’s children are sent to New Zealand to get an education so we’re not sure if the population includes those who are off the island for academic endeavors or not.  But still, as Chuck commented, imagine a population that small and coming across someone you really didn’t like!  

After the transfer of goods, we enjoyed a scenic cruise around the island, a whole seven miles in circumference!  Having been told that it would be a clockwise circumnavigation, which meant that our stateroom was on the correct side of the ship for excellent viewing, so we searched out our friends Sally & Ange and Bob & Nancy and invited them to come up and enjoy the sights from our verandah.  They were very appreciative as this way they could get good pictures without dodging others to jockey for position.  We had lovely views of entire trip around the island and were struck by the sheer cliffs as well as the shoreline caves.  The mutineers had certainly chosen well! 

The whole scenic cruising experience took about two hours and soon we were on our way again, but the “Bounty” theme continued throughout the day.  Because they had anticipated having islanders on board, they had not scheduled any lectures so the day was pretty much free for other things.  The movie of the day was the 1984 version (Anthony Hopkins & a very young Mel Gibson) of Bounty.  I had seen it when it came out, but I enjoyed it much, much more this time, having been to Tahiti and Pitcairn Island as well as having had multiple lectures on our Pacific cruises on the subject of Captain Bligh, Fletcher Christian, and the HMS Bounty.  Dinner that evening was a themed formal night – you guessed it, Mutiny on the Bounty with dining hosts dressed as captains and stewards dressed as sailors and the dining room decorated like the bow of an 18th Century sailing vessel.

Our days at sea have been relaxing yet full of activities to choose from.  The seas have been a beautiful ocean blue and very calm.  We were informed of Cyclone Gary in the South Pacific, but Captain Jonathan informed us that it will most likely pass about 600 miles to the south of us.  The only likely effects we’ll have will be more swell to the water and possible rains in our days in French Polynesia.  We would love to have the perfect weather there for such beautiful ports, but we are reminded that this is their rainy season.   We’ll have to keep our fingers crossed that the weather will cooperate!

BT

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