General San Martin, Peru - Seems Like We've Been to the Moon and Back!

Our 2008 trip to Peru was our very first time to South America; we certainly have seen a contrasting view of this country on our second visit.  This time in Lima we saw the fascinating marine wildlife rather than the historical perspective.  In 2008 we also visited several locations high in the Andes Mountains as well as the rainforest.  This time we are visiting a barren desert.

General San Martin is a port (there’s no way you can call it even a village – there’s nothing there but a few port-related structures) named for the Liberator of Peru. Under his guidance, Peru gained its independence in 1821. He also played a vital role in the liberation of other South American countries so his name has shown up in our visits to other countries, particularly Argentina. 

When we opened the curtains in the morning to look out at the landscape, we thought maybe we’d been transported back to Egypt, but even our stop in Safaga last April, as well as our trip across the desert to Luxor, boasted more natural life than this port did.  We were literally looking out at a handful of structures at the foot of high slopes of sand and rock.  There wasn’t a plant in sight anywhere! 

As we departed on our shore excursion, Paracas National Reserve, we passed hundreds of long pipes awaiting transportation to other areas of Peru.  Our guide Brady explained that gas is transported between Gen. San Martin & Cuzco, and the pipes need to be changed every seven years.  Apparently this is the year.

Peru is divided into 24 departments (like our states), and each department is further split into provinces (counties).  General San Martin and Paracas are in the Inka department and in the department of Pisco (which gets its fame for the potent drink, the Pisco sour).  While the main industry of the majority of Peru is mining, in Pisco, the main industry is fishing.  There are two dominant languages in Peru, Spanish and quechua, as well as 46 dialects, and people from one region can’t always understand the dialect from another region. 

The word Paracas means sandstorm – something definitely believable!  Strong winds of about 65 km (or 40 mph) occur two or three times a year.  The rainfall is minimal – about 2.8 millimeters that occur about four times a year.  Our excursion took us into those slopes of desolate landscape that looked very much like we’d landed on the moon rather than the coast of Peru!  All we saw for miles were sand dunes, craters and small piles of wind-blown sand.   

Despite this, the tour was fascinating as we traversed the mineral-salt roads in our bus (rather than a lunar module).  Our first stop was at a location where there were likely thousands of fossils visible in the rocks.  Apparently this had been a sea bed millions of years ago, and the mollusk shells were everywhere!  This was also an area where ancient peoples of Peru were found nearly perfectly preserved in fetal position by tomb raiders.  The bodies were tied into fetal position as a ceremonial gesture to prepare them for rebirth into the afterlife. 

Looking across the barren land, we were taken by the browns and yellows and reds of the sand set against the blue of the sky.  Missing was the greenery we are so accustomed to, but you certainly can’t say that it was devoid of color!  The red comes from the iron present in the soil, and it makes for an interesting contrast.

Another stop at a cliff overlooking the ocean gave us a marvelous view of a rock formation named The Cathedral.   The Cathedral is home to hundreds of Peruvian boobies that nest on its edges.  In addition, other sea birds, Inca terns, cormorants, oyster catchers, Peruvian pelicans, and seagulls could be seen everywhere. Swooping low over all were the giant turkey vultures, hunting for any food they could find.  This area had been damaged severely by an 8.0 earthquake seven years ago, but despite this, the beauty was breathtaking.  It was also fragrant with guano, which is harvested regularly and sold for $35-40 a sack. 

A stop at a vantage point overlooking Playa Roha, or red beach, afforded a beautiful and unique seascape, showing off the red sand, which is created by the high amount if iron in the sand.  A lone sea bird (couldn’t figure out the name from what the guide told me, but another passenger called it a whimbrel) darted around the beach, dodging the incoming waves while searching for tidbits.  In the distance we could see a small fishing village around the curve of the bay. 

After a brief stop at a small museum that touted the geological and zoological history of the area, we continued inland, where we finally started seeing plants of various kinds.  We passed by a huge field of asparagus, which is one of the main crops.  Another important crop is paprika; according to our guide, Peru produces about 10% of the world’s paprika.  Most is exported for use in other countries.  A stop at Sumaqkay textile hacienda afforded us the opportunity to see a family business of weaving colorful cloth.  It was interesting to see several young men at work, using many different colored skeins of thread that they wove into patterned textiles.  Naturally this also meant the opportunity to buy various items made from the woven cloth.  I passed on that, but did take the opportunity to have a swallow of Pisco sour.  Ugh!  I told Chuck to remind me that the next time it is offered, I should take a pass.  I remember not caring for it in 2008, and this sample was no exception.  I was glad to get back on the bus and grab a snack bar to kill the strong taste.  I must be the exception to the rule because others really seemed to enjoy it. 

Since we had completed the tour earlier than expected, we had the opportunity to stop at a seaside village where we could do some shopping.  I browsed the wares and decided on something along the way, only to discover that when I went back I couldn’t find what I’d considered buying.  I guess I really didn’t need it after all!

This was our last port in Peru, and we were so pleased to have had the opportunity to make a second visit here.  The contrasts were really striking, and it was wonderful to see so many diverse landscapes in our two visits.  What a delightful country! 

We set sail late in the afternoon and are now headed toward Easter Island.  Four days at sea should give us a chance to relax a little while continuing with our favorite shipboard activities.  As we head away from South America, we will be entering what we call the “Internet Black Hole”.  We are not sure when we will be able to make our next post. 

BT

P.S. We are having email issues - for some reason can't send or receive. Hopefully this will be resolved sooner rather than later!