Friday, February 22, 2013

Kangaroo Island, Australia: An Amazing Wildlife Adventure!

The day promised to be a very, very long one but full of adventure, and it certainly didn’t disappoint!  With such a short cruise from Adelaide to Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, we were anchored in plenty of time to be on our way ashore at 7:15 for our shore excursion, Wildlife Encounters 4WD Safari.   Ever since my slight mishap on the 4WD excursion in Wellington, I’ve been overly-cautious about these experiences, but we were very pleasantly surprised to find that we would be on a small 4WD bus rather than 4-passenger jeeps.  Unlike in Picton where the seats were so small with very little legroom, we had ample space.

Kangaroo Island was first discovered in 1802 by explorer, Matthew Flinders, who claimed the island for England.  While the French got there shortly thereafter, Flinders made sure they knew that the land had already been claimed.  The third largest island in Australia (behind Tasmania and Melville), Kangaroo Island (KI) is approximately the size of Singapore, or about 4500 square kilometers.  However, Kangaroo Island has far fewer residents with only 4600 people living there.  Recently National Geographic ran a study among journalists, specifying criteria to rank islands as desirable places to visit.  Much to their surprise, of the top 100, Kangaroo Island tied with another of our favorite islands, the Isle of Skye in Scotland for 5th place!  They are hoping that this will increase tourism; currently approximately 180,000 tourists visit per year.  Needless to say, tourism would be a boon to the economy of the island! 

Kangaroo Island boasts a wide variety of gum trees, and gum is a kind of eucalyptus tree.  Most of the trees here survive with little water, which is fortunate because between the months of October and April there is virtually no precipitation.  In fact, my impression of what the driver told is was that there are two seasons – the wet season and the dry season.  During the dry season they have to be very careful of bush fires.  As we drove, we saw two separate incidents where bush fires were being brought under control by firefighters.  Apparently this is very, very common in the areas of Australia that we have been visiting because the people take it as a matter of routine.  The bush fire is a way of clearing things out and regenerating growth.  (Later in the day we visited a national park that was devastated by a bush fire in December of 2007.  While evidence of the fire was unmistakable, there was also an amazing amount of plant growth despite the destruction that had occurred just five short years ago.) 

Has anyone else ever wondered why Australian athletes wore green and gold rather than the red, white, and blue of their country’s flag?  This is because of the wattle, Australia’s national tree. We learned that the wattle, a kind of acacia tree, is found everywhere in Australia; not only that, but it is always in bloom somewhere so the colors of green and yellow on this tree are ever-present in the country.  For this reason Aussies compete in the green and gold colors. 

Although the island has a very small human population, it has prolific wildlife, many species of which are indigenous to the island.  The KI kangaroo is a subspecies of the Western Gray kangaroo.  At one time Kangaroo Island was part of the mainland, but after the last ice age, it separated and became an island.  That is when the KI kangaroo began to develop its own characteristics.  The kangaroo is so prevalent that it was used as a source of protein for early explorers (hence the name Kangaroo Island), and is still so common that it’s not at all unusual to see kangaroo road kill.  (We heard from both the guide and our Aussie friend John that this kind of road kill is called “was a roo.”  Ugh!) There are thousands of Tammar wallabies on the island.  This is a very small animal very similar to its larger counterparts but only stands about knee-high.  I asked the guide if it was related at all to the adorable little pademelons we had seen in Tasmania back in 2009, and the answer was not really.  Pademelons are even smaller than the Tammar wallaby, but they all definitely look like part of the kangaroo family.  The Australian sea lion is an endangered species with only about 14,000 left.  The brushtail possum, unlike in New Zealand where they’re open game, is completely protected on the island.  The echidna, like the platypus, is a monotreme, or an egg-laying mammal. 

Animals introduced to the island are the koala and the platypus, both introduced in the 1920s, sheep, pigs, wild deer, rabbits, and cats.  Wild cats have become such a problem that they are trying to find ways of getting rid of them.  Another animal brought to the island is the honeybee, which arrived in the 1800s.  The settlers were wise in immediately requesting that this bee be protected by law. As a result, the honey is very pure, and it is just about the only place in the world where the honeybee is not infected with a mite that kills off these bees.  Our guide Daniel told us that if this mite was not brought under control, honeybees would really become endangered worldwide. 

Our tour was off and on its way early enough that the nocturnal kangaroos were still hopping around in the fields.  Daniel explained that because of the overcast skies (no chance of rain because this is the dry season) the kangaroos would be fooled into thinking it wasn’t quite daytime yet.  We caught quick glimpses of several of them as they foraged for food.  Enjoying the unique flora of the island we continued on our way across it, making a stop at Prospect Point, where we could enjoy a view of the seaside resort of Pennington Bay. 

Then it was on to Seal Bay, our first wildlife stop.  This was where we would find a colony of 1100 Australian sea lions.  Female sea lions spend their lives pregnant!  When a female comes to maturity at about age 4, she is immediately impregnated.  Gestation period is about 18 months, and when the pup is born, she takes care of it.  In the meantime, she immediately gets pregnant again.  The only one who will take care of a pup is the mother.  When the pup is able to be left alone, the mother goes out to sea to feed, sometimes traveling as far as 1200 miles.  During that time she is in danger of being attacked by predators – whales and sharks.  If the mother dies, this means a loss of not just the mother, but also the fetus as well as the pup she left on shore because the pup will starve without its mother.  As we watched, some sea lions lounged on the beach while others swam in the waters.  As mothers or pups calls back to the mother.  That way mothers and pups can find each other.  We watched as one pup wandered the beach calling for its mother.  We were a little concerned that this pup had been orphaned, but after a continued calling and searching, the pup found its mother.  Watching these animals walk is interesting because unlike many other sea lions, they can lumber along on all fours, leaving long tracks all over the sand making it appear like hundreds of dune buggies have raced across the beach. Their flippers act like “snowshoes” in the sand.  Soon we were on our way again, having enjoyed the unique experience of being so near to such an endangered species of animals in the wild.

Continuing our journey to a nearby wildlife sanctuary, I kept my eyes peeled for anything that might signal an animal.  What a surprise to look down and see a little Tammar wallaby sitting along the side of the road just as we might view a squirrel or rabbit ready to dart for cover at home! 

A few minutes later we had arrived at our next destination, a wildlife park where the animals could roam freely.  The only fences we saw were specifically to allow the animals to separate themselves from the humans!  In other words, the animals could come and go at will, but the humans were limited to where they could walk.  We started down a path, wondering what to expect.  After a similar experience in Melbourne in 2009, we didn’t anticipate having much opportunity to see any real wildlife so we were very pleasantly surprised to discover that we could see koalas in several trees.  In 2009, we saw two high up in the trees – hard to spot hidden in the branches.  This time though we caught sight of two quite near each other as soon as we started down the path.  And even more to our surprise, there was another one a little farther down that nestled in the crook of a tree just about six feet above the ground.  Here we were, practically at eye-level with this adorable little creature!  He was really settled in for the day, and he completely ignored our crashing around in the brush trying to get the best vantage point for pictures.  One man even touched him to see what his fur felt like.  I gasped – I was so afraid he would wake the little guy up so he’d climb away!  Nope – he just slept through it.  By the way, koalas spend most of their time sleeping, and they smell like eucalyptus.  Closely related to the wombat, koalas eat virtually nothing but eucalyptus.  Koala is an Aboriginal word meaning little or no water.  They get their water from the eucalyptus leaf, and since the leaf has little protein, this means that the koala has little energy – hence the need for so much sleep!  After spotting yet another koala, we discovered a couple of the Tammar wallabies hiding in some nearby bushes.  Hard to spot, they hunkered down till they could find a way out and around all the people who were eager for photo ops.  Lounging nearby, totally indifferent to its “celebrity status” (pictures to be posted on Facebook when we get a chance) was an Australian kangaroo.  Walking a little farther, we encountered more kangaroos.  A couple were inside a fence relaxing while a couple more were outside the fence posing for pictures.  Both stood up tall to grab the nearby trees and feed on the leaves, oblivious to the clicking cameras.  Finished with lunch, one kangaroo hopped away heading for who knows where.  

Very happy to have seen so many of these iconic animals, we headed to Flinders Chase National Park, where we were scheduled to have lunch and spend the afternoon.  This park comprises most of the western end of Kangaroo Island.  We had a nice picnic lunch of prawns (but not on the barbie – by the way, shrimp on the barbie is a fallacy because Aussies don’t call them shrimp), pasta salad, tossed salad, and a dessert of fruit and cheese.  I walked up to the visitors’ center and after exploring the gift shop I was heading back when I saw a few people a few yards away gazing up into a tree.  Yep – another koala nestled into a branch doing what koalas do best: sleeping.   As we waited for people to come back so we could depart, all of a sudden our HAL representative on the excursion pointed to something and Daniel went dashing off.  They’d spotted an echidna making a “run” for it across the road in front of another bus.  Daniel managed to head him off and he curled into a ball under some brush right near the road.  While we were unable to see his little snout, his prickly spines were very visible to us. Since the echidna is rather elusive, this was a very pleasant surprise for us! 

As we traversed the lands of Flinders Chase National Park, we could see the result of the 2007 bush fire that devastated the park.  However, also evident was the regrowth of the plants. Myrtle and a kind of tea tree were abundant, albeit low to the ground.  Our next destination was Remarkable Rocks, and with the low foliage we caught a glimpse of these massive stones in the distance.  It reminded me of coming around a corner and seeing Stonehenge rising out of the Salisbury Plain in England; however these monoliths were created over millions of years by nature rather than by man, and the dramatic seascape formed a completely different backdrop.  Set atop cliffs that rise about 270 above the sea, the stones themselves stand approximately 30 feet high, carved artistically by nature. We were able to walk up the smooth rock slope to climb on and stroll around these strangely shaped, imposing stones.  Chuck ventured farther than I did because my foot had really taken a beating with all the walking I’d been doing.   However, no matter what the vantage point, these naturally formed sculptures were impressive. 

After another short ride through the park to the southwest tip of the island, we arrived at Admirals Arch, another incredible natural land formation, which also boasted a colony of New Zealand fur seals.  Back in Wellington I had visited a colony of the same species and was able to get very close.  In this case however, we viewed them from above as they lounged on the rocks or cavorted in the waters.  There was a long walkway that sloped gently down toward the sea, affording several vantage points where we could see these huge marine animals.  Daniel told us that in order to see the arch we would have to negotiate several stairs because this arch was only visible from the very bottom platform.  I went down as far as the end of the ramp and then decided to try the stairs.  Discovering that the stairs were an easy walk, I continued downward, and am I glad I did!  There was Admirals Arch in all its seaside splendor!  Carved out of the rocks as it was, it was a perfectly formed arch that offered a view of the rocks on the other side of the point.  Cavorting through the waters under the arch were more seals.  Hanging down from the arch were what appeared to be small stalactites; these tiny rock “icicles” gave the impression looking from the inside of the top half of a giant’s mouth with his jagged teeth hanging down taking a huge gulp of water.  What an incredible view, and a perfect last stop on a wonderful excursion.

By this time it was late in the afternoon.  The last tender back to the ship was supposed to be 5:30, and as we set out after a final rest stop, we had a lot of road to cover from the southwest corner to the northeast coast of the island.  We whizzed along, backtracking part of the way, enjoying the scenery once again, and even spotting a lone kangaroo venturing across a field late in the afternoon. 

As we rode, Daniel told us a little about life on the island, and his information corroborated what we had gotten from the ship.  With a small population, the island remains unspoiled.  He commented that there were only two restaurants on the island, and if someone wanted to go to one, they would have a long round trip.  As a result, people would entertain each other, inviting a group of friends over for dinner and a movie (since there are also no theaters on the island).  To rent a movie is about $3.50, so if it’s a group of six to eight people, they can enjoy each others’ company and not worry about wasting a lot of money on a movie they don’t enjoy.  There are no police, no taxis, no public transportation.  People don’t lock their doors; they leave their keys in the cars, just in case a neighbor needs to borrow the car!  It’s difficult to imagine such a safe environment when at home we live in a culture where everything must be kept under lock and key!  Ever present, however, is the fire department! 

Having so thoroughly enjoyed our short stay on Kangaroo Island, we were sorry to see the day end.  This is one place we would return to in a heartbeat!   We certainly hope this wonderful island remains as fascinating as it is today and that tourism doesn’t affect its innocence! 

BT 

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